Margot Robbie’s Harley Quinn is one of the DCEU’s most beloved characters, but her initial design in Suicide Squad was … problematic, to say the least. It might be a Halloween costume staple, but it’s not necessarily the most feminist of getups. It’s looking like that will change, though, given the first looks revealed of her Birds of Prey costumes, and we have the female creatives behind the scenes to thank for that.
In a recent story with Vogue, Birds of Prey costume designer Erin Benach said, “That’s what happens when you have a female producer, director, writer.”
Robbie agreed, adding, “Yeah, it’s definitely less male gaze–y.”
Featuring a sheer shirt that reads “Daddy’s Li’l Monster” and tiny shorts over fishnets (and heeled boots), the older costume fell into a male gaze trap; this was not helped by camera angles lingering on Harley’s rear and legs in the outfit. Costume designer Kate Hawley is credited with the work, but it was director David Ayer’s decision to use Harley’s look to objectify her. It didn’t help that her main motives in the film were centered around her abusive boyfriend, the Joker.
This brings us to the age-old retort brought on by trolls, which is “How can you shame a woman for what she’s wearing if you’re supposed to be a feminist?” While real women can actively choose what to wear, fictional women are often put in skimpy costumes for the purpose of making them appealing to male audiences. They can’t actively choose their own costume, because—surprise—they are not real, and examining the motivations of those who did make those choices is perfectly valid.
Harley’s new outfits are gorgeous and attractive, and yet, it doesn’t feel like Harley is posing for the camera or dressing up just for a male character. The costumes are still out there and vibrant, but she looks like she can actually kick ass in them without falling out of her shorts. We don’t know enough about the film to say if her motives will be better, but the sub-title, the Fantabulous Emancipation of One Harley Quinn, all but guarantees that her motives are a little less Joker-centric.
This is where having female creatives behind the scenes really helps. A female director and writer, with the help of a female producer, can navigate pitfalls there. Cathy Yan is clearly shooting Harley through the female gaze: She’s not a sex object but a fully realized character. We’ll still get the Harley Quinn fans adore based on set leaks, but we won’t have to deal with her being just a male fantasy. Instead, she’ll probably trend more towards a female power fantasy.
Birds of Prey will be released next year. I can’t wait to see how they undo the damage done to Harley by Suicide Squad, and to see her as a fully realized character rather than an object for the camera to lust after.
(via IndieWire, image: screencap)
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