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What Was Fashion Like in the Gilded Age?

Taissa Farmiga and Carrie Coon in The Gilded Age (2022)

Tonight the MET Gala will return, and the theme of the night is “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” with an emphasis on “gilded glamour.”

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“Dust off Edith Wharton’s ‘Age of Innocence’ and ‘The House of Mirth,’” says Vogue. “The 2022 Met Gala will ask its attendees to embody the grandeur — and perhaps the dichotomy — of Gilded Age New York.” What was the fashion like during the Gilded Age? That’s a good question.

The Gilded Age, as it was named by Mark Twain, was roughly between 1870 and 1900. It was a time of rapid economic growth, but also major corruption and the beginning of the major economic imbalance between the wealthiest Americans and the poorest. Women in the Gilded Age took a large role in social movements, and therefore, their clothes changed to reflect that. While the corset was still part of women’s clothing, with tiny waists still being a signifier of beauty, there was more mobility in clothing as the era progressed.

In terms of high fashion, the “bustle” was considered the trend. Essentially the dress version of a mullet, the style was fuller in the back than in the front. They also would contain multiple colors. If you watch HBO’s The Gilded Age and wonder why these women are wearing such garish color combinations, it is historically accurate.

Yes, women of the day thought it was cute to walk around in orange, baby-blue, and stripes as a fit. (HBO)

Also, the more collars, and the higher around the neck, the better. If you don’t look strangled, are you even doing fashion?

For men, it was all about the tuxedo. I wish I could say it was significantly more interesting then than it is now, but sadly, it was pretty much what you’d expect, with short hair, pointed beard, and a “generous mustache.” Later in the era, the style that became popular was less Victorian-style stuffy and more simplicity in design, a lighter corset, and beautiful material. This was known as the “Artistic Dress movement.” Oscar Wilde, the Lil Nas X of his time, was a big fan of the style and made it popular in Europe.

Oscar Wilde in his aesthetic lecturing costume, 1882. (Photo by Napoleon Sarony. Public Domain.)

As the world would go into the 1900s, the fashion would change again, impacted by the fact that women in high society were outdoors more, and two-piece dresses would become more commonplace. But more than anything, the period represented money, and considering the MET Gala is a place to raise money with expensive and intricate outfits, a gilded theme is almost too good.

Especially as we deal with our own massive wealth gap, technological advancements leading to corruption, and political strife. But you know, make it fashion.

(image: HBO)

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Princess Weekes
Princess (she/her-bisexual) is a Brooklyn born Megan Fox truther, who loves Sailor Moon, mythology, and diversity within sci-fi/fantasy. Still lives in Brooklyn with her over 500 Pokémon that she has Eevee trained into a mighty army. Team Zutara forever.

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